Main entrance to Komachi Dori (Photo: Chris Gould)

(Writer: Chris Gould)

Countries with war-torn pasts tend to build up many ex-capitals, and Japan is no exception. Happily for tourists, many ex-capitals are sightseeing gems, with Kamakura proving an excellent case in point. The historical beach town, located some 65 minutes from Tokyo Central station on the Yokosuka line, has long been famous for temples, seasonal cherry blossoms, and the Great Buddha Statue. So revered is its status, that when addressing the Japanese Parliament in November 2009, Barack Obama took pains to stress that Kamakura was his fondest memory of a childhood visit to Japan.

Nowadays, in addition to world-famous monuments, Kamakura has gained a new niche in the tourist market via Komachi Dori (‘Small Town Street’), the town’s cramped yet cosy main shopping street. ‘Next to Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine, it’s the first place I show to any foreign visitor,’ says Chikako Ono, a 69-year-old local resident and historian. ‘In fact, the street runs parallel to Wakamiya-oji where Hachiman-gu is located, and thus provides the most interesting promenade to the shrine. On Komachi Dori, you can find some of the finest artisanal work in the Kanto Region, and the choice of restaurants is also splendid.'